Incredible contrasts of both old and new - in this instance a view of the modern horizon while being sat inside the ancient walled harbour of Dilmun
The Bahrain World Trade Centre (complete with hydro-power wind sails)
To be honest I didn’t know what to expect when I accepted to take on a 3 month DJ residency at Muju – what was promised to be one of the best restaurant / lounge bars in the worlds 45th smallest country… Bahrain.
For those that don’t know, the Kingdom of Bahrain is an island in the Persian Gulf just off Qatar & Saudi Arabia (of which there are 2 enormous record-breaking bridges of 45km & 25km respectively linking the island to the mainland) and although I had been here before (for a gig at another venue), as with most work related visits I never managed to do much outside of either club or hotel. Yet on this first brief visit I had a very warm welcome in general and for the music I played – so much so I agreed to up and leave my winter life in London to head off, girlfriend and records in hand to the desert.
What I found when I arrived (and have now had the time to explore) was a country and people steeped in a varied history, industry, beliefs and customs. The rich history of the region ranges from the Sumerians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Portuguese, and finally the Arabs, under whom the island became Muslim. Religious influences come from the expected Islamic (one of few places in the world where Sunnis and Shi’as live in relative harmony) to the less expected but large communities of Hindu and Catholic. The industry of the island ranges from one of the richest sources of pearls in the world (of which Roxane my girlfriend seemed pretty intrigued with) to the expected petroleum based industries of extraction, refining and export. While the most recent, largest and successful being the international banking centre.
These industries and the fact that Bahrain is an old British colony have made the country a haven for ex-pats which leads me onto the next and perhaps in my line of work the most important – the music, nightlife and entertainment side of the country. One thing that I have realised in the few weeks of being here is that the country as a whole seems a lot more relaxed towards music (and in general – women can drive and vote!) than any of the other countries I’ve worked in the area – this may have something to do with the fact that the king, Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa and his crown prince are both liberal (in Arabic terms) and avid music lovers (Michael Jackson lived and recorded his last album here under their funding and as their guest before his untimely death).
One of the many historic forts that can be found in Bahrain
The bars, clubs and restaurants (those of which I have had the pleasure of visiting) all seem to be at the high-end scale of things and while they seem not to have any real ‘underground scene’ here (although Bahrain definitely has it’s seedy side – Manama, it’s capital came in at No. 8 in the worlds most sinful cities list!), the music that’s played in the later venues all seems to be of a high quality – typical world wide brands in the clubs and bars such as Cream, Hed Kandi & Bar Grooves to the illustrious and left-field Perrier Chillout Festival (being held at the venue where I am DJ resident) where acts such as Jazzanova, Talvin Singh and Tom Middleton will be appearing.
An example of some of the older architecture - in this case an archway dating back to the Tylos (Greek) occupation and a sunset in the Persian Gulf
Which finally moves me onto the unashamed self-plugging part of this communiqué – the reason behind my move out here – Muju – the beachfront restaurant and lounge bar of which I am in residence. The venue is nothing short of spectacular in luxury design (it is part of the 5 star Dragon Hotel – that is actually in the shape of said beast). This coupled with the (rather splendid) music I’ll be playing (a sample of which you’ll be able to download on the mix link accompanying this blog) when you’re eating from the great menu or lounging by the pool makes it an unique experience like none other in Bahrain, the Persian Gulf or for that matter any where else in the world.
Glad I got that off my chest.
The giant 25km causeway that connects Bahrain with Saudi Arabia
So in conclusion – am I happy that we made the decision to pack up and become ex-pats for a few winter months? Damn right I am! Next to the hospitality we’ve encountered, the ancient history and emerging music scene (of which I am proud to be a part of), the sun is shining bright and the temperature is nice and warm, which to me is a reason in itself to stay.
Check out his mix especially for Muju lounge here …
Somewhere in the middle (East)
We’re on the next flight out!!!!
[...] Continued here: Our Man In The Middle East – Mr. Doris « We Love… Life [...]
Hey loving the blog, very well written and accurate! I’ve lived here for over 2 yrs now in Amwaj, and will be looking forward to a visit to Muju soon!
Man I miss ya! Wish I was there soaking up the rays and your fine music!
yo doris i run infusion magazine in dubai. i like your blog, would you like to write something similiar for infusion magazine? have you met karim, he is from bahrain
Awesome photos brother look forward to the mix !
*Charl Chaka* – would love to write for Infusion magazine – how shall we get in touch? All contact info (emails etc) can be taken from my website – http://www.mrdoris.co.uk
All the best
Great blog and while you’re at it bring us some pearls… Love from Ibiza, Anita
Dear Anita Dey
my husbands company had an amazing time at bhs with his company, AMPLITY, just before xmas, we are desparate to come back with our family in April but can’t make contact, is the hostel open in April?? if so could you let me know at sarasouthwell@yahoo.com
kind regards
Sara Southwell